Style Developments of Kameez
The styles of kameez frequently change, so I is not possible to update this book as per style trends every now and then. To enable one to cut the patterns of any style, developments of new selective styles of kameez are explained in this lesson By studying these various developments, one can easily cut patterns of any kameez style. Style given here can be further developed or modified by interchanging or combining the selected features.
The method adopted for style development is based on Flat Pattern Cutting in this method, sryle are developed by using the basic pattern or block Instructions for cutting basic pattern are given on the next page.
After cutting the basic pattern of a kameez according to measurements, read the instructions given in the respective style and make the changes accordingly. Dotted lines in the pattern indicate the construction or out line of the basic pattern. Development of the front and back is shown together as many features are common. Keep 7.5 to 12 cm (3 to 5 ) opening at the center back unless shown otherwise .
While writing this lesson, Kameez with three quarters or full sleeves with few gathers or and fullness at the crown is in fashion. Drafting of the basic and many other type of sleeves is shown in the sleeves lesson . One can cut any type of sleeves according to the then prevailing fashion by studying this lesson.
Three quarters sleeve with few gathers at the crown can be developed by using the basic sleeve pattern with desired length ( see fig basic pattern ) Take point X at a distance of 4 to 5 cm (1 ½ to 2 ) from point 0 and join it to point 1 . Extra portion taken for gathers is shown by the shaded area. For sleeve with gathers and fullness at the crown, extend line 1-X nearly 4 to 5 cm (1 ½ to 2 ) up to Y and shape the crown as shown in fig 3 .
Seam allowance : In the draft of a basic pattern, 1 cm (1/4) seam allowance is included. Wherever the basic pattern is further cut or seprate pieces such as godets (kali), panels etc are joined add 1 cm (1/4) seam allowance at both the sides of cut or godets etc. wherever desired add 2.5 to 4 cm ( 1 to ½ ) for hemline.
Abbreviations : the following abbreviations are used in the draft .
C = Chest or Bust SH = Shoulder (half) W= Waist round FL = Full length SL = Sleeve length WL = Waist length N = Neck round SR = Sleeve round (Bieceps or wrist ) Abbreviations such as C/8 + 6.5 (2 ½) mean one eight of chest plus 605 cm or 2 ½ In some place only numerals are shown e.g 5 (20 to denote the distance between the two points in centimeters as well as in inches.