Modern Shalwar with Belt
In Plain shalwar (in above fig ) there is too much fullness at waist and seat (hips) . But some dislike such bulging of material at waist . To eliminate this , the length is divided into 2 parts which are joined at the seat. The upper part of waist piece (from waist to seat ) is kept plain , while the lower part (from seat to bottom ) is kept as usual. Gathers are taken to lower part while joining it to the waist piece . this helps to get anice look of outwear like khameez.
Measure
1 Full length 75 cm(30”)
2 Seat or hips 70 cm (28”)
3 Bottom round or roumd to foot 30 cm (12”)
This garments requires 2 piece of waist , 2 side pieces , 4
kalis and 2 separate in turns at bottom with interfacing
Instruction for Drafting
Side piece (fig 1) square lines from 0 , fold
at
1-0 1-0 = full length plus 1.5 cm (1/2”)
2-0 = half length bottom less 2.5 cm (1”)
or one th fourth seat (hips) less 2.5 cm (1”)
3 is squared down from 2
Slide piece (fig 2 ): fold at 5-4
5-4 = full length less waist piece
length 1-0 plus 2.5 cm (1”)
6-4 = half bottom less 2.5 cm (1”)
7-5 = same as 6 to 4
join 7-6
Kali (fig3) 9-8 = same as 5 to 4
10-8 = one third seat or more according to looseness desired
11 is squared down from 10
11-10 = one fourth seat (hips) plus 10 cm (4”) less waist piece
lenght 1-0 plus 1.5 cm (1/2”) for to seam
12-11 = 5cm (2”)
13-9 = 4 cm (1 1/2”)
join 13-12
shape 11-13 as shown
Tailoring notes
1. As per fashion , the back side is kept plain
, while gathers are taken at the front
2. After joining 6-7 of the side piece with 8-9 of kali the
combined lower part will look like (fig 2)
3. Fig 1 shows the unfolded waist piece keep 6-1 = nearly 5
cm (2”) 15-10A = same as 6 to 3
4. While joining the upper and lower part first join 6-3 with
15-10A
5. Take gathers at 10-8-15 and join this part with 5-6 . Here
4-5 and 0-11 come in a line .
6. In this way prepare the other side (one for the left and
the other for right )
7. Join the leg seam (11-13) of both the left and right sides
(i.e prepare two legs separately)
8. Stitch the upper side as usual . prepare casing (nafa) at
4-2 and insert a cloth tape .
