Saree Blouse cutting and Draft
This Blouse is commonly
used with saree. The Accompanying drats is designed
for figure with prominent bust. Four darts are taken around
the apex of bust, to get a nice fit. There are diffrent saree
blouses draft like
Trouser or pajama cutting and Drafting
This trouser used as an indoor or outdoor garment is prepared with a casing arrangments for inserting a cloth tape or elastic. At waist . If it is to be prepared with fly button arrangement . wais round should be reduced. The bottom round of a night dress pajama or trouser should be little less compared to outdoor pajama or trouser .
Chudidar is an unisex pyjama , with fullness at the top , but tightly fitted at the lower leg from knee to bottom . it is prepared with casing at waist for inserting a cloth tape. It is worn with kameez , Punjabi kurta , jodhpur coat and sharwani . It is cut on bias material to get a nice fit below knee .
Plain Shalwar Cutting Draft
Shalwar is an unisex garment used with Kurta or kameez . it is prepared with a casing at waist for inserting a cloth tape. A canvas or interfacing ,aterila is used in the intruns at the bottom (paychai), with any suitable design. Its cutting depands upon the expected looseness at the waist and effect desired by the wearer. Plain shalwar for both ladies and gents.
Modern Shalwar with Belt
In Plain shalwar (in above fig ) there is too much fullness at waist and seat (hips) . But some dislike such bulging of material at waist . To eliminate this , the length is divided into 2 parts which are joined at the seat. The upper part of waist piece (from waist to seat ) is kept plain , while the lower part (from seat to bottom ) is kept as usual. Gathers are taken to lower part while joining it to the waist piece . this helps to get anice look of outwear like khameez.
Ladies Shirt Cutting Draft
In this shirt the right front comes over left (i.e opposite to gents shirt ) and the full length is less compared to gents shirt. It is prepared with a side seam dart like Blouse . vertical darts are also taken at front and back . Any shirt collar , and either half or full sleeves can be attached . If round bottom is required , Keep X.13 = One sixth chest and shape as shown by dotted lines.